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Yes, at least that’s what I do. You can permanently screw them on under your battery terminal, and I usually just wedged the little connector piece between where the seat sits and the bike.

Great to hear! Your welcome, thanks for commenting to let me know

That’s a good idea. Especially with the info that was on the tags and stuff on the bikes, like prices, year and stuff. Unfortunately, I only know as much as what was written on the bikes. Just getting into older Harleys. So it’s all new to me.

Not all of it is readable from the video, but if I have tied, maybe I’ll go back and remake it with some more details. Thanks for the input.

Thank you, and you’re welcome! I’m glad to hear that it was able to help you. Thanks for sharing

I couldn’t tell you. I tried a couple different rollers and they never worked. So I just folded up in the pool as I go and then pull it off at the end. If there’s any debris hose it off and re-fold it up and set it aside. And then put it back on later

Thanks! Happy to hear the video helps

You’re welcome, good luck with it all and hope everything works out for you. It’s not always easy but with UA-cam in the Internet, it could usually be figured out lol.

Most scrap yards pay whatever the lowest metal is that’s on it. In this case, it would be steel. So the ones around me only pay out $110 per gross ton (2240 lbs). Which breaks down to little less than five cents per pound. Probably only about 15 to 20 pounds. So probably a dollar or less. Some might give a little more have a separate price for coils, but not all.

The 4 points of bonding is required by code, but technically if all the metals connected together, one point should cover it, but code requires four spots. At least for my type of pool. As far as yours goes I’ve heard of those pools, but I’m not super familiar with them, and I have never bonded one of them. I do know however that there is a different binding for all resin pools, because the only thing metal is the wall. Those types have a special binding system with only one point of connection. Yours may be similar to that, but I’m not sure. With those there’s a bonding attachment that connects to the seam of the wall where it connects together. It doesn’t need anything else because nothing else is conductive. Everything else still needs to be bonded like skimmer, pump motor, and anything else metal within a certain distance of the pool.

So long story short. Bonding is an important safety step to protect people in and around the pool from shocks or possible electrocution. As far as yours goes if it’s not getting inspected, just make sure anything metal is connected to that bonding grid.

Technically if one metal connect to another metal that bond should transfer. So if everything is metal, you should be OK, but if it’s getting inspected, you’re going to have to do what the inspector wants you to do. It’s not the end of the world if it doesn’t pass the first time. They’ll usually tell you what they want and give you a chances to redo it until their satisfied

Thank you!!! I don’t think I have any other footage or pictures of it, but I’ll take a look around and if I can find anything with more detail to post, I’ll reply to let you know

I tried the roller things, but I found it easiest to just pull it off from the one side and fold it up as I go. If there’s leaves and stuff on it I’ll i’ll just halfway folded up and pull it off the pool, hose it off on the deck and then fold it up. I attempted one of the roller things, but they didn’t work very well, so I just returned it.

As far as storage I usually just put it off to the side of the deck, garage or on the side of the house or somewhere, clean out-of-the-way, then put it back on later. It’s not that bad. It’s probably around 2‘ x 2‘ x 2‘ folded up give or take. So it’s not too bad. Long-term storage I just put in the basement, shelving in garage or somewhere can sit.

Honestly, I don't know. The vast majority of my videos is me doing the work personally, but the construction and concrete for the pole barn was hired out. I did all the prep work / machine work, electric, and everything else, but kind of trusted the builder. After they were dropped in the ground, I started second-guessing it and wondering if there was some kind of preparation I should have had them do, but I talked to the builder about it just to see his opinion. It was built last year and I was 40. He just said don't worry this building will last your lifetime lol. I'm hoping it'll be OK, but I'm a little concerned. I did some googling and reading, and stumbled upon this below...

This is googles new AI conclusion, it was out of the top of the page and said based off of collected info... Treated wood posts in a pole barn can last more than 50 years without significant rot if they're in well-drained soil or sand and are properly treated. With proper maintenance and the right foundation, pole barns can last up to 100 years or more. However, some say the most commonly cited timeline is 40-60 years.

The bubbles should always face down. The way it heats your pool is through the sun warming up the air that is trapped in the bubbles. The heat is therefore then transferred into your pool.

It also helps retain the heat overnight. The majority of heat is lost in the cooler temperatures overnight.

The best way I found to measure it is to just lay a string around your pool where you plan on digging it. You could use a rope or extension cords or anything like that. After it’s done being laid out around the pool, just mark your endpoint and you can make it a straight line and measure it like that.

And yes. Use a small self tapping screw to secure the lug to the upright. Just make sure it’s short enough to not hit the pool wall, obviously, and add extra length of wire to make those connections.

Thank you for the tips

You’re welcome, good luck with it

@@BrandonStunts thank you just got all the part I ordered from your link this will be my project for tomorrow, I got some stainless steel 5/8 self screwing screws hopefully everything comes out alright

Yes, the only thing that needs to be buried would be the ring around the pool. Everything else connects to that ring, so they’re all connected together as one unit. So it doesn’t really matter the location on the upright as long as it’s on there. Burying the upright wire until it connects to the ring is more just to get it out of the way, that wire doesn’t have any burial requirements, just needs to connected to the upright and then to the ring that is buried

You're welcome!!!

Most people don’t think it’s worth it. You normally get paid pretty decent for the aluminum copper, compared to the time that it would take to separate them. Although I haven’t seen anyone successfully do that efficiently.

Yes, small hex head sled taping screws. Obviously make sure they’re very short. It only needs to go through that thin metal the uprights are made out of. And make sure it’s screwed in the center or the deepest part of the upright. If you go too close to the outside, you could hit the wall.

Something like this below or you could use the Phillips roundhead type as long as they’re not the real wide ones because it’ll get in the way of the lug. I do have to disclose I get a small percentage through Amazon‘s program if you buy it. They AI monitor the post. Their links are in, but it’s like a but it’s only like a percent or so. You could just go to Depot or Lowe’s or any hardware store.

amzn.to/3KgcvUN

That’s a good question. I do most of the work myself on my channel, but this was hired out to an Amish building company out of Lancaster PA. I believe the only difference is it’s built by the Amish. The pole barn post frame construction process is pretty universal I believe.

Yeah, the manual doesn’t help too much. You’re welcome though, happy to hear the video helped!

Yeah, I was a little nervous about that too. Then someone told me just drive it right up the Rams, and if you have an issue through it, a sheet of plywood down on one or both of them and you’ll be good to go.

Glad to hear it helped you out! Thanks for commenting to let me know

It’s called - Rollin by: Lauren Duski

Yeah, pretty much lol

Thank you. I'll do my best to answer your questions... 1. It's surprisingly not too bad, even in full sunlight. Maybe it's the color, I'm not sure. It obviously gets a little hot, but I really think my old stained pressure-treated wood deck at my last home we were at for 10 years. 2. It is a bit slippery, and can feel a little slick when wet. Unfortunately we were opening the pool yesterday and my daughter was running and slept at the end after I just hosed it down. That's been the only issue though we've had in the past two years since it's been built. And I definitely think it's way better than people getting splinters. The kids like to run across it and slide on their socks when it's dry. I think it's better than wood in a lot of ways, and would personally never want to go back to a pressure-treated deck again 3. The support, for the framing, met all of the code requirements and more. We even have it framed out to support the weight of a hot tub in front of the single window next to the door. There is definitely not been any weight issues at all, but there has been some areas at the end of each length of tracks that is starting to curl up. Hoping I can add additional screws to hold it down, but that's been the only negative so far.

I've never really had any axle issues, but it would definitely be interesting to make one. If I ever do have to make a video out of it lol

You’re welcome! That’s pretty much what I was going for, so that’s great to hear! I’ve never used it on an engine block, but I’ve definitely heard people who have with good results. Thanks for watching and dropping a comment.

All metal electric boxes get grounded. That includes the ones inside the house as well as weatherproof ones outside the house. The bonding however is to tie together the pool, pool, equipment, and anything metal with a certain distance around the pool.

It’s kind of like an isolated secondary ground. I don’t have the full in-depth technical explanation, but the bonding is kind like an additional ground as a fail safe or protection potential dangerous electrical shocks

I meant I went through two chains, meeting they were no longer usable and needed to be sharpened

I drop them off to a local place to get sharpened. I take each chain to get re-sharpened until they say it’s too far gone

@@BrandonStunts Oh I see what you meant.

That’s great to hear! Thank you, and you’re welcome! I actually had to rebuild these shelves and re-watched and followed along to my own video. So I get it lol. Good luck with it.

Thanks, I actually just added that to the title lol

Anything metal including the pool within a certain amount of feet has to be bonded. If the posts and rails are resin The pool wall may have to be bonded, but I heard some places that is not required. I’ve never done a resin pool or one that didn’t have metal posts. So I don’t know the process of that, but as far as the skimmer goes, that’s essentially bonding the water. So the skimmer part has to be done on metal and resin pools.

Appreciate the comment. Need to pull column pc back to expose the pool wall joint and attach to a bolt I guess Skimmer kit easy enough install Thanks

Yeah, that was a good one lol

yeah, this is a cool one! should be opening the pool soon! Lexi's already asking

😂

it flooded half way to the house

I realized if I don't reply to these, they staff in my notifications until I do

Yeah, I thought that was a pretty cool one.

Thank you, I thought it was my best short yet lol

Super cool!

What kind of questions? I might be able to answer them, or could possibly make a part 2 version of the video to explain the rest of the way

I roll the dice a lot in general lol. It was leaning on another tree at the top and had a wedge cut on the other side to help control the drop, but this is definitely not a safety video or showing the right way to do it.

This definitely wasn’t a safety video or trying to show how to do it the right way. I roll the dice a lot lol, but I cut it so high so I could get more leverage on my excavator when I’m ripping it out of the ground.

I guess I lucked out with mine then. They’re just like you said when it comes to copper, but at least with those yellow brass water heater brass drain valves, they pay clean yellow with the rubber inside it.

I’ve never done it with any other brass though, just those water heater drain valves

Awesome, that’s great to hear! We’re going into our 4th spring / summer with it. Still holding up well. It’s a pretty big assembly process but it’s definitely nice once it’s finished.

And you’re welcome by the way!!! Thanks for commenting, it’s always nice to get some good feedback

Your welcome 👍🏻

Yes it does.I have much success with the solar covers due to shade, but I recently cleared all those trees for a pole barn. So now other than the house, the pool gets full sunlight.

If you’re interested, you can check out the short video and seeing all the trees drop to clear the area. Full sun is much nicer!!

For the pool bonding, there is no ground rod. I guess you could say the solid copper wire ring going around the pool acts kind of like a ground rod, but bonding and grounding are different. The bonding bridge essentially is what used to connect all the binding wires together. Aka the bond wire from the skimmer, the bond wire from the pump, and the bond wire from the post and ring around the pool. They are connect at the grounding bridge, which is what bonds everything together. No other means of grounding or bonding is necessary outside of that unless you have other unique situations like a close by metal fence or something else uncommon

Hope that helps answer your question. If you want, clarification on anything or have any other questions, feel free to ask.

Thank you. It was $42,500 for constructing the building and the man doors / garage doors. The concrete with additional.